The moment I learned that you can hike to an active volcano in Guatemala and watch it erupt every 10 minutes, I knew I had to go. I had read that the hike was very challenging, though, so I put off this trip for years, worried I wouldn’t be able to do the hike, especially when I was diagnosed with POTS (postural orthostatic tachycardia syndrome).
I waited and waited hoping to one day feel confident I’d be able to tackle the challenge, but I eventually got tired of waiting. I realized I may never feel as ready as I did before my diagnosis, so I decided not to let the fear of failure stop me. The hike was the hardest thing I’ve ever done, but I did it anyway and was rewarded with insane views of lava spewing from a volcano above the clouds. It was an incredible experience.
The hike up Volcán Acatenango was just one part of my extraordinary trip through Central America. I also explored the colorful village of San Juan on the shores of Lake Atitlán, wandered alongside temples built more than a thousand years ago, and traveled deep into a cave in Belize to see ancient Mayan artifacts and learn about human sacrifice.
This itinerary is perfect for adventure-seekers, history nerds, nature lovers, and anyone (like me) who would rather spend their vacation climbing a volcano than sitting on a beach.
Itinerary Overview
Alex and I spent 10 full days in Guatemala and Belize. I modeled the itinerary below after the one that we followed, with some tweaks. The major changes I made were:
- I added a day to Lake Atitlán. We spent 2 days there, but felt like there was still more to see by the time we left.
- We reserved an entire day to travel from El Remate (near Flores) in Guatemala to San Ignacio, Belize. I moved that travel to the end of the Tikal day instead of giving it its own day to save time.
Note that travel days before and after the trip are NOT included in the 10 day count.
ANTIGUA, GUATEMALA
Antigua is a small city in Guatemala surrounded by volcanoes. It became a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1979 for its well-preserved Spanish colonial architecture and historic churches.
Antigua is the jumping-off point for the hike up Volcán Acatenango, one of the country’s most popular attractions, but the city is worth spending a couple of days exploring before you head up the volcano, especially since you’ll want to acclimatize before you hike anyway. I recommend spending at least 2 nights (1 full day) in Antigua before you attempt the hike.
Day 0: Arrive in Guatemala
Fly to Guatemala City
We flew into La Aurora International Airport in Guatemala City and booked a private shuttle through our hotel to get to Antigua. The drive took ~90 minutes.
Day 1: Walking Tour of Antigua
Take a Walking Tour of Antigua
Candidly, we didn’t love our tour operator, so I won’t recommend them, but Antigua itself is a beautiful colonial city that is well worth exploring. Make sure to stop by Santa Catalina Arch, Iglesia de la Merced, and the ruins of Antigua Guatemala Cathedral.
Visit Jade Maya
We also really enjoyed our visit to Jade Maya, where we learned about jade.
Jade is a rare stone. Our guide told us that it can only be found in Guatemala, Myanmar (Burma), and Japan, although I read online that Russia and Kazakhstan also have deposits of jade.
The Mayans were obsessed with this precious stone. They made elaborate masks and jewelry with it and royals and priests would even drill holes in their teeth and fill them with jade.
Eat Dinner at Caoba Farms
You can’t beat the ambiance at this farm-to-table restaurant.
Day 2: ATV Ride Through Nearby Villages
Explore the villages around Antigua by ATV
Get outside the city and explore the nearby villages with Simoon Tours. Depending on the tour you choose, you can visit a chocolate factory, taste locally made fruit wine called vino de níspero, tour a coffee plantation, or head into the mountains to visit Hobbitenango. We did the Villages Tour, but I hear the Sunset Tour is their most popular.
Day 3: Hike Volcán Acatenango
Check out of your hotel
You can store excess luggage with your Volcán Acatenango tour operator.
Hike Volcán Acatenango
Start the 2 day hike up Volcán Acatenango and Volcán Fuego. This activity was the #1 highlight of my trip through Guatemala and Belize. Watching a volcano erupt above the clouds was one of the most otherworldly experiences I’ve ever had. We highly recommend the tour company we went with, V-Hiking.
I wrote about this experience extensively in this blog article.
Hiking Acatenango: Watching an Active Volcano Erupt Above the Clouds
Day 4: Finish Hike & Travel to Lake Atitlán
Hike Down From Base Camp
Hike back down Volcán Acatenango.
Take a shuttle to Lake Atitlán
We reserved our shuttle through V-Hiking, our Volcán Acatenango tour operator. The drive takes ~3-5 hours, depending on traffic.
WHERE TO STAY
We stayed at Hotel Pensativo and we liked it. Alex was training for a half marathon at the time and wanted access to a gym, and Hotel Pensativo’s sister hotel, Porta Hotel, had a gym we could use just a few minutes away. There were very few options in Antigua with a gym.
Overall, we liked Hotel Pensativo. The rooms were spacious and clean, and there was a nice view of a volcano from the restaurant on the second floor. However, it was definitely on the pricey side for hotels in Guatemala (we paid $385 per night) and we didn’t spend much time at the hotel, so I might look for a cheaper option if I were to return to Antigua.
You will only need to reserve a hotel in Antigua for Nights 0, 1, and 2. You will check out on Day 3 and camp on Volcán Acatenango on Night 3, leaving spare luggage with your tour operator in the meantime.
LAKE ATITLÁN, GUATEMALA
Lake Atitlán is a giant lake surrounded by three volcanoes and a dozen or so villages, each with its own distinct personality. Here you can spend your days hopping between the villages, learning about Maya culture, hiking to viewpoints, or just relaxing by the lake and taking in the views.
Day 5: Relax
Relax and soak up the views of the volcanoes
After the taxing hike up Volcán Acatenango, you’ve earned a rest day. Hang out in the pool, book a massage, or take a nap. You could also rent paddleboards. Our hotel offered free paddleboarding but in the morning only, as the waves were less choppy then.
Day 6: Take a Cooking Class & Explore a Village
Take a Cooking Class
We were deciding between this cooking class in Antigua and this cooking class in Lake Atitlán. We ultimately went with the class in Antigua. While it was very hands-on and had a great, social atmosphere, it personally bugged me that we never saw any of the recipes, so we had no idea how the tomatoes we chopped were being used in the recipe or how to recreate any of these dishes at home. If I had it to do over, I’d try the class in Lake Atitlán.
Explore San Juan La Laguna
Spend the day in Lake Atitlán’s most colorful village. Learn about Mayan stingless bees, watch a weaving demonstration, and walk through the art galleries. Check out this article for my recommendations on how to spend a day in San Juan.
Exploring San Juan La Laguna: Lake Atitlán’s Most Colorful Village
Day 7: Hike El Rostro Maya (Optional) and Explore Another Village
Hike El Rostro Maya
We left Lake Atitlán after the second day, but in retrospect it would have been nice to have one more day. Here are some of the things you can do with the time:
If you’re not burnt out from hiking (we admittedly were), get up before sunrise one final time to hike to the viewpoint at the end of the Rostro Maya trail. We highly recommend hiring a guide if you plan to do this trail, as robberies have been reported in the past.
Explore another village
We would have probably picked Santa Catarina Palopó, San Antonio Palopó, or San Marcos if we had the extra day.
WHERE TO STAY
I found all the options in Lake Atitlán to be a little overwhelming. There were so many hotels and the majority received mixed reviews. I spent hours researching the different villages and the pros and cons of staying in each. Funny story: Alex mentioned he wanted to get more involved in planning our travels, so we sat down together to research hotels in Lake Atitlán. After an hour, he gave up, saying it was way too much work.
After a few hours of research, I ultimately went with La Fortuna at Atitlán. It had its own private pier and was just outside the quiet town of Santa Cruz La Laguna. Many reviews on hotels in other villages complain about dogs barking at night, but this hotel just outside a major village did not seem to have that issue.
We loved our hotel. It ended up being one of my favorite places we’ve ever stayed at. The hotel was small, with just 7 rooms. Our room was tucked away in the jungle. It had a stunning outdoor bathroom with a soaking tub that we put to use every night and somehow there were no bugs, even at night.
There were cats and dogs roaming around the property and it was landscaped beautifully. There was a stunning view of one of the volcanoes that you could take in while hanging out in the sauna or the pool.
The food was delicious and you could eat it at the restaurant, in your room, or anywhere else you wanted. I recommend the tables right near the dock.
I also had the most wonderful one hour massage for only $45. I highly recommend a stay there, but be sure to book your room at least a few months in advance as they tend to book out.
TIKAL / FLORES, GUATEMALA
Day 8: Travel to Tikal
Reserve a shuttle to take you to Guatemala City Airport
We organized a shuttle through our hotel.
Fly to Flores
The flight takes just an hour.
Travel to your hotel
Arrange a transfer from Mundo Maya International Airport to your hotel in Flores or El Remate. Check in and spend the rest of the evening relaxing before your early start at Tikal tomorrow.
Day 9: Explore Tikal
Explore Tikal
Walk through the ancient Mayan city of Tikal, one of the largest and most powerful cities of the Classic Period. I wrote this article about our time at Tikal that might be a helpful read.
Tikal Guatemala: The Mayan Ruins That Outshine Chichén Itzá
Travel to Belize
Reserve a shuttle to transport you across the border to San Ignacio, Belize. The drive from El Remate takes ~2 hours, depending on the line at the border.
Visiting Tikal and traveling to Belize on Day 9 followed by a full-day tour of ATM Cave on Day 10 makes for two long, busy days back to back. If you want to move at a slower pace, spend an extra night in Flores/El Remate and set aside an extra day in the middle to travel to Belize. This is what we did.
WHERE TO STAY
The most popular place to stay overnight near Tikal is Flores. We opted to stay in the town of El Remate instead, though. It’s a much smaller town but also half the distance away from Tikal.
We stayed at Hotel Gringo Perdido. Fun fact: that translates to Lost White Person or Lost Foreigner in English.
Overall, we enjoyed our stay. Having breakfast and dinner included was a great touch, and the food was surprisingly good. The property was well designed, with lots of hammocks and chairs set up in common areas to relax in. The rooms also had AC, which the 3 hotels located inside Tikal National Park didn’t have.
However, the building itself was quite old and in need of renovation. It initially made me question how clean the place was going to be, especially since we saw a couple small bugs, but it ended up being very clean and a bug or two is not a big deal when you’re staying in the jungle. Also, there are allegedly crocodiles in the lake right next to the property. They have a vague sign out front saying “wildlife, swim with caution” but no details on what wildlife they’re talking about. They also make you sign a waiver saying the hotel is not responsible for any negative interactions with wildlife. Despite this, we saw many guests paddleboarding and swimming in the lake, including my husband!
SAN IGNACIO, BELIZE
Day 10: ATM Cave Tour
Explore ATM Cave
Spend the day exploring Mayan artifacts and learning about human sacrifice at ATM Cave. To learn about what our experience at ATM Cave was like, check out this article.
Exploring ATM Cave: The Gateway to the Maya Underworld In Belize
End of Trip: Travel Home
Reserve a shuttle to take you to Belize City
The nearest international airport with the most options is Philip Goldson International Airport in Belize City. It took less than 2 hours to drive from San Ignacio to Belize City.
Fly home or to your next destination
WHERE TO STAY
We stayed at Ka'ana Resort in San Ignacio. We felt lukewarm about this property. The food was expensive and a little underwhelming and the pool (one of the main draws of the resort) was ice cold.
WITH MORE TIME
If I had at least three more days to spare, my top recommendation would be to add a visit to the Belize Cayes on the Caribbean coast to your itinerary. Our original itinerary included this stop. I wanted to snorkel with nurse sharks in Hol Chan Marine Reserve, take a helicopter ride over the Great Blue Hole, relax on the beaches at Ambergris Caye and Caye Caulker, and scuba dive in the Mesoamerican Reef (the second largest barrier reef system in the world after Australia’s Great Barrier Reef). However, after getting diagnosed with POTS, I was no longer able to scuba dive, so we traded the Belize Cayes for a few days in Lake Atitlán, which we had originally planned to skip. Hopefully one day, I’ll be able to dive again and get the chance to visit this region in Belize.
With just one or two extra days, I would spend them in Guatemala, either hanging out around Lake Atitlán, visiting Chichicastenango Market, or swimming in the turquoise pools at Semuc Champey. If you really love history, you can also visit more Mayan ruins. I would research Yaxha in Guatemala and Caracol and Xunantunich in Belize.
FAQS
What is the best time of year to visit Guatemala and Belize?
The best time to visit Guatemala and Belize is during the dry season, which runs from November to early April. We went in early January and had wonderful weather.
For ATM Cave specifically, the best time to visit is from February to April. During this time, the water levels inside the cave are generally at their lowest. Early in the dry season, the cave can still be affected by heavy rainfall from the previous months, which can cause the water levels to rise too high and the cave to close.
I would recommend traveling in February or March for the absolute best conditions.
How do you get around Guatemala and Belize?
To travel to the major destinations on the itinerary (Guatemala City to Antigua, Antigua to Lake Atitlán and Tikal to San Ignacio), you will need to book shuttles. To get from Lake Atitlán to Tikal, I would recommend booking a shuttle to Guatemala City and then flying to Mundo Maya International Airport near Flores.
Once you arrive at each destination, getting around is pretty easy. Antigua is very walkable, lanchas connect the villages around Lake Atitlán, and you can arrange tours or local transportation for the activities near Flores/El Remate and San Ignacio.
Is it safe to travel to Guatemala and Belize?
Both Alex and I felt safe the entire time we were in Guatemala and Belize. That being said, there are a number of safety concerns to be aware of.
There have been reports of pickpocketing and robberies around Lake Atitlán specifically, mainly on the quiet roads outside the villages. Don’t walk on these roads; take a lancha to get from village to village instead. Hire a guide if you plan to hike. Keep an eye on your belongings while you’re in the villages. Avoid walking around alone after dark.
In Antigua, we felt safe, even after dark, but I would avoid venturing outside the city at night. If you plan to hike to the Cerro de la Cruz viewpoint, use the main route and go during the day.
Guatemala City has more serious safety concerns than the other destinations on this itinerary. You will fly to Guatemala City at the beginning of your trip. I would arrange transportation to Antigua in advance and plan to head to Antigua immediately upon arrival.
If you take this advice, you won’t need to spend your entire visit worrying about safety. We never felt like we had to be on high alert and I would absolutely not let these considerations stop you from visiting Guatemala and Belize.
How was the border crossing from Guatemala into Belize?
It was relatively straightforward for us and took us less than 10 minutes, although lines at the border can reportedly get quite long when the tour buses come through. We also had to switch drivers at the border, but that was handled by our shuttle company.
Do I need medication for this trip?
I strongly recommend getting a prescription for Acetazolamide (also known as Diamox) if you plan to hike Volcán Acatenango. Base camp sits at 11,000 feet above sea level, and the hike is long and strenuous, making hikers susceptible to altitude sickness.
Do I need vaccinations for this trip?
I would recommend consulting with your doctor about vaccinations. My doctor recommended the following for our trip: hepatitis A and B, typhoid, and malaria (for the Petén part of our itinerary aka Tikal). That being said, while malaria is present in parts of Guatemala, the overall risk is relatively low compared with many destinations where malaria is more widespread, so I personally don’t think it’s absolutely necessary.