The Ultimate 2 Week Alaska Itinerary: Glaciers, Bears & More
There was a time not so long ago when I never would have planned a trip to Alaska.
I first fell in love with travel after I visited Norway in 2022. I decided from that point onward I wanted to explore the world outside my own country. I became obsessed with cultures and histories that were as different as possible from the ones I was familiar with. I wanted to go as far away from home as I could.
Alex, on the other hand, was excited about exploring the United States. He was insistent that we plan a trip to Utah to go hiking a few years back so I reluctantly agreed. It turned out to be an incredible trip and I slowly warmed up to the idea of exploring my own country sometimes as well. It’s a good thing I had a change of heart about exploring the US. Alaska turned out to be one of my favorite travel destinations. Ever.
We flew over glaciers in a helicopter, hung out with wild bears, let Alaskan huskies pull us on a sled across the snow, and so much more, all in the space of 2 incredible weeks. Bonus points for the fact that since we were within the US, we could work remotely for a few days and limit our PTO (paid time off) to just 8 days for a 16 day trip.
Below, I share our full itinerary. We loved pretty much everything we did, so I didn’t change much when putting together my recommendations.
Itinerary Overview
I broke this itinerary into 2 parts:
- Part 1: Anchorage, Palmer, Girdwood, and Seward/Kenai Fjords National Park
- Part 2: Katmai National Park
The easiest part to plan logistically is Part 1. Part 2 was our favorite, but you’ll need to plan very far ahead to snag reservations in Katmai National Park, whether you do a multi-day Bear Camp trip like we did or a day trip to Brooks Falls.
I do realize that camping in bear country is not for everyone. If you prefer to just complete Part 1 of this itinerary, it will still be an unforgettable trip.
But, if you decide to do both, they pair together exceptionally well, as you get different experiences in each: glaciers and epic landscapes in Part 1 and bears and remote wilderness in Part 2.
If you’re planning to visit Alaska, you’re in for a treat, regardless of where you decide to visit. It’s such an incredible place.
PART 1: ANCHORAGE, GIRDWOOD, AND SEWARD/KENAI FJORDS
ANCHORAGE
Day 0: Fly to Anchorage
Fly into Anchorage
As you prepare to land, make sure to look out the window. The views of the snow-capped mountains are stunning.
Pick up your rental car
We rented from Midnight Sun Car Rental and have never had a more seamless experience. We were in and out in less than 15 minutes.
Pick up Bear Spray
You’re going to need it for the hikes in Kenai Fjords National Park and there are more options in Anchorage. We purchased bear spray from REI Anchorage, but at over $50 for a can we didn’t have to use (thankfully), it’s a little expensive. I would recommend checking out Alaska Bear Spray Rental instead.
Eat Dinner at Inferno Seafood Boil
We had an absolute blast eating at Inferno. It had been years since I had done a seafood boil and this one was particularly delicious. A couple weeks later once we were back in New York, Alex and I joined some friends for another seafood boil. It simply didn’t compare to Inferno!
Day 1: The Musk Ox Farm + Choose Your Own Adventure
Visit the Musk Ox Farm in Palmer, Alaska
Drive ~1 hour to the nearby town of Palmer to visit the world’s only Musk Ox Farm.
Visiting the World's Only Musk Ox Farm in Palmer, Alaska
Choose Your Own Adventure
For the remainder of the day, pick from one of the following options. If you choose to head back to Anchorage (options B and C), be sure to try F Street Station for lunch. There was a long wait for our food, but the crab and halibut sandwiches were delicious.
NON-NEGOTIABLE: End the day with Wild Scoops Ice Cream
I was in Alaska for 2 and a half days and I had Wild Scoops three times. It’s that good.
WHERE TO STAY
We opted to stay at an AirBnB. We loved this one.
GIRDWOOD
Just an hour’s drive away from Anchorage is the tiny village of Girdwood. It may look like a quiet town with not much going on from a first glance, but the helicopter flightseeing and dog sledding tour we did here was our favorite thing we did in Alaska other than Bear Camp in Katmai National Park.
Day 2: Helicopter Flightseeing + Dogsledding Tour
Drive to Girdwood
It will take roughly 1 hour to drive from Anchorage to Girdwood. The drive is incredibly scenic, arguably one of the best drives in the United States. On your way, make sure to stop at Bird Point for epic views. Added bonus: there are bathrooms (albeit basic) at Bird Point. We made a few other stops along the way (including Potter Marsh and Beluga Point), but Bird Point was our favorite.
Take a Helicopter Flightseeing and/or Dog Sledding Tour
Fly over glaciers and go dog sledding on Alpine Air Alaska’s Ultimate Summer Tour, which includes a 90 minute helicopter ride and dog sledding with an award winning team of Alaskan huskies.
Read about our experience in the helicopter and on the dog sleds here.
Optional: Visit the Alaska Wildlife Conservation Center
The Alaska Wildlife Conservation Center is a fantastic place to see the animals that call Alaska home, including black and brown bears, musk ox, caribou, bison, wolves, and lynx. We opted not to visit the AWCC, since we were planning to see bears in the wild in Katmai and musk ox at the Musk Ox farm in Palmer. However, we heard wonderful things about it.
Drive 1.5 hours to Seward
Stop at Moose Drop-In Trading Post for delicious fudge along the way.
WHERE TO STAY
We stayed at the Ski Inn in Girdwood. We wanted to have accommodation in Girdwood in case the weather was bad and we needed to postpone our helicopter tour to the next day. However, I would probably recommend staying in Seward instead, so you have the option of doing an activity the next day.
SEWARD/KENAI FJORDS NATIONAL PARK
Kenai Fjords is a national park in Southern Alaska known for its epic glaciers, coastal fjords, and abundant wildlife. Here, you can participate in many ice-based activities (boat tours to glaciers, kayaking tours to glaciers, hikes to glaciers, ice climbing lessons, etc) and look for the wildlife that calls this park home.
Day 3: Harding Icefield Hike
Hike to the Harding Icefield
51% of Kenai Fjords National Park is covered in ice, so exploring the park means checking out some of that ice! Today, you’ll hike up a steep trail to get fantastic views of Exit Glacier (from the Top of the Cliffs viewpoint) and the Harding Icefield (from the end of the trail).
I wrote about our experience hiking the Harding Icefield in this blog article.
Hiking the Harding Icefield Trail: Is It Worth the Climb?
Alternatively, if the idea of a strenuous hike is off-putting, you can opt for an easier trail with views of Exit Glacier from a different angle. The Exit Glacier View and Overlook Loop is a 2.2 mile loop with only 300 feet of elevation gain and estimated time to complete of 1-1.5 hours.
Day 4: Boat Tour
Take a Boat Tour Out to the Remote Northwestern Fjord
Embark on the 8 hour journey towards Northwestern Glacier. Along the way, be on the lookout for humpback whales, orcas, fin whales, Dall’s porpoises, otters, Steller sea lions, harbor seals, eagles, and puffins.
Read about our experience on the Northwestern Fjord Boat Tour here.
Northwestern Fjord Boat Tour Review (Kenai Fjords National Park)
Day 5: Glacier Kayaking
Go Glacier Kayaking
Kayak past chunks of ice floating in Aialik Bay on your way to Aialik Glacier, a massive tidewater glacier that will take your breath away.
Read about our experience glacier kayaking with Liquid Adventures here.
Kayaking to Aialik Glacier in Kenai Fjords National Park
Day 6: Lost Lake Hike or Ice Climbing
There are a few options for today’s adventure
Day 7: Weather Buffer Day
The weather in Seward can be unpredictable
Heavy rain, wind, or low clouds can easily derail your plans. If, on a previous day, you had to postpone one of your activities, including the helicopter tour in Girdwood, today is your second chance to do it.
Alternatively, use this as a rest day. This week was action-packed! You earned a little downtime.
WHERE TO STAY
We stayed in this small AirBnB and really liked it! The location was perfect, just 5 minutes’ drive away from the town center.
No matter where you decide to stay, I recommend making reservations months in advance. We booked our AirBnB in February for our trip at the end of July after I searched countless hotels’ websites and found no availability. Seward is a small town and there are limited options, so it’s important to plan in advance.
PART 2: KATMAI NATIONAL PARK
KATMAI NATIONAL PARK
Katmai National Park is a remote park in southern Alaska best known for its massive population of brown bears. It’s one of the best places in the world to see brown bears in the wild.
Day 8: Travel to King Salmon
Drive back to Anchorage
The drive will take ~2 hours 15 minutes.
Drop off the rental car
Midnight Sun offered a free ride to the airport, just 10 minutes away, after we dropped off our car.
Catch a flight from Anchorage to King Salmon
The flight is short at just under an hour long.
Day 9 - 13: Bear Camp
Hang out with wild bears for 5 days
Join Scott and Jackie Stone in Katmai National Park for Bear Camp. Photograph wild bears catching salmon in the river during the day and camp at night.
I wrote extensively about my time at Bear Camp. It was one of my favorite experiences in my entire life.
Answering ALL Your Questions About Bear Camp (Katmai NP)
5 Moments From Bear Camp I Can’t Stop Thinking About (Katmai NP)
Bear Camp Archives: My Favorite Photos & Fun Facts (Katmai NP)
We flew back to New York the same night that Bear Camp ended. However, we didn’t get a shower or a real meal before that long flight, both of which we would have greatly appreciated after 5 days without either. I would recommend one more night in King Salmon at the end of your trip to decompress, eat food that doesn’t come in a bag, and take a nice hot shower.
WHERE TO STAY
The night before Scott Stone’s Bear Camp, we stayed at Sockeye Cabins. I can't say I was too impressed. The cabins are quite outdated and small and the food is just alright. But, I'd still recommend it, because the location was fantastic (a 2 minute walk from the King Salmon airport) and there are limited options in King Salmon.
WITH LESS TIME
If you need to cut time from Part 1, remove the day in Anchorage/Palmer or cut a day from Seward. If you cut the day in Seward, make sure you schedule the activities you’re most excited about for the beginning of your trip so you can reschedule them if the weather causes a cancellation.
If you need to cut time from Part 2, you’re nervous about camping, or five full days with bears sounds like too much, there are plenty of ways to visit Katmai for a shorter period. You can take a day trip to Katmai from Homer or Anchorage, camp independently at Brooks Camp, or try to snag a room at Brooks Lodge near Brooks Falls.
Both Brooks Camp Campground and Brooks Lodge are extremely competitive, though, so you’ll need to plan ahead. Brooks Lodge operates on a lottery system roughly two years in advance. Reservations for Brooks Camp Campground open early in the same calendar year as your trip, with July and August dates released on February 7. If you’re interested in camping at Brooks Camp Campground, I recommend setting a reminder on your phone to alert you the minute the reservations open.
WITH MORE TIME
With more time, I would consider adding either Wrangell–St. Elias National Park or Denali National Park, both of which are accessible by car.
FAQS
Do I need to rent a car?
I recommend getting a rental car for this itinerary, but you do not need a rental car.
If you prefer not to rent a car, you can take the train from Anchorage to Girdwood and later, to Seward. Both Girdwood and Seward are small towns, so you can just walk around town to get to your activities. However, if you plan to hike in Seward, you will need to make a plan to get from the center of town to the trailheads and back. You would also most likely need to scrap the trip to Palmer for the Musk Ox and Reindeer Farms.
What is the best time of year to complete this itinerary?
The best time for this itinerary is July and August.
For Kenai Fjords specifically, most activities in the park (boat tours, kayaking tours, etc) run from the end of May through the beginning of September. If you plan to hike, though, I would aim to go in July or August since snow can linger on the trails at higher elevations. Visiting later in the summer generally means less snow on the paths.
The best time to visit Katmai National Park is from July through September, when bears gather around the park’s rivers to feed on salmon. We went the first week in August and the bears were actively fishing the entire time. We didn’t visit Brooks Falls since we had 5 days in other parts of Katmai, but if you want to see the famous scene of brown bears catching salmon as they leap up Brooks Falls, aim for July, when the sockeye salmon run is at its peak.
In summary, to be able to do all the activities listed on this itinerary, I would plan my visit for July or August.
How many days do you need for a first visit to Alaska?
I would recommend at least one week for a first visit to Alaska. You can do either Part 1 or Part 2 of this itinerary on its own and it would be a fantastic introduction to this wonderful place.
However, if you can swing it, I recommend dedicating a full 2 weeks for your trip. We spent 2 weeks in Alaska and we feel like we barely scratched the surface. I can’t wait to return someday and check out some of the other national parks.
How far in advance should I plan an Alaska trip?
I would highly recommend planning at least a year in advance, especially if you plan to visit Katmai National Park.
If you want to stay at Brooks Lodge, for example, you’ll need to enter the lottery for a reservation 2 years in advance. Scott Stone’s Bear Camp, which is what we did, is also sold out for next summer (2027), so you’ll need to book for 2028 as soon as possible. Day trips to Katmai can be made on shorter notice, though.
To visit Seward/Kenai Fjords National Park, I would recommend booking at least 6 months in advance. We booked our accommodations in February for a trip at the end of July and couldn’t find a hotel with availability, so we went with an AirBnB. The farther in advance you book, the more options you have.
What should I pack for a trip to Alaska?
I would pack:
- Rain jackets
- Rain ponchos (optional)
- Hiking boots
- Merino wool long sleeve shirts (or other athletic quick dry shirts)
- Hiking pants
- Rain pants (helpful for the kayaking tour, if you have them)
- Layers: warm jackets, fleeces, etc
- Waders and wading boots (only if you’re doing Bear Camp)
- Warm hat
- Baseball cap
- Waterproof gloves
- Small daypack
- Dry bag for electronics (optional, as the kayaking tour provides them)
- Bug spray
- Water bottle or water bladder
- Binoculars (we have the Vortex Diamondback binoculars and love them)
- Camera gear (see the full list in the next question)
- Dramamine
- Medicine kit (I bring Advil, Pepto Bismol, Gas-X, Benadryl, Melatonin, and Bandaids in addition to prescription medicine I personally need)
- Sunglasses
- Sunscreen
- Eye mask (the sun doesn’t set until 11pm in the summer)
- Toiletries: deodorant, toothbrush & toothpaste, hairbrush etc.
- Body wipes (only if you’re camping)
- Hand sanitizer
- Charging cables for phone, camera, etc.
- Waterproof phone or camera case (optional)
- Face Gaiter (I wish I had one at Bear Camp - the high wind on day 1 left my nasal passages a little irritated the next day)
I would also be sure to rent bear spray as soon as you get to Anchorage. My recommendation is to rent it from Alaska Bear Spray Rental. It also might be helpful to rent hiking poles for the Harding Icefield hike, although we did it without them and we were fine.
What camera gear should I bring?
We brought:
- Camera (we had a Sony a6400 and a Sony a6700)
- Lenses (we brought a Tamron 18-300mm and a Sony 200-600mm)
- Spare batteries
- Spare memory cards
- Tripod (we didn't bring it and desperately wish we did)
- Rain cover for camera
- Polarizer (helps capture the bright red color of the salmon at Bear Camp)
- Dry bag for camera (in case of heavy downpour)
- Lens wipes
Do I need bear spray?
Yes, you need bear spray for the hikes in Kenai Fjords National Park or for anytime you venture outside Alaska’s towns (going on a run, etc). We purchased bear spray from REI Anchorage, but at over $50 for a can we didn’t have to use (thankfully), it’s a little expensive. I would recommend checking out Alaska Bear Spray Rental instead.
Can you see the northern lights in Alaska in July or August?
Not usually. Alaska’s summer nights are too bright to see the Northern Lights for most of July and August. If seeing the aurora is a priority, plan your trip between September and March, although you won’t be able to do most of the activities on this itinerary during that time.